Big Red

Posted: April 13, 2010 in Surf Gear
Tags: , , , , ,

Every rose has a thorn

I mainly ride short boards now.  It feels ridiculous to say, like some claim at snobbery, but it is true.  My go to board is a 6 foot 7s Superfish which, while not being organic and soulful, is damn fun to ride.  I often wonder what it says about me that I would buy, and admit to riding, a board that was a product placement on the sitcom Gary Unmarried. 


I also ride a 6′ 4″ inch Local Motion from time to time.  The best way I can describe the Local Motion is via an interaction I had at Brave New World surf shop the other day in Point Pleasant.  I was going through the racks just checking out the different shapes. There was a guy there doing the same.  He was super outgoing and he saw that I was enamored by a 5’8″ Merrick Pod.  He approached me and extolled the board’s virtues.  He explained that it was a favorite board of his.  The conversation moved along as we pulled different sticks from the racks.  He asked my opinion about a 6′ Lost… Blunt that he was vibing on.  I told him my experience with my Local Motion which has a similar pin tail.  When he heard the name Local Motion he looked at me and said “wow, I thought they stopped making those in the 80s.”  I know that this comment is not a true indicator of the boards performance, but it does sum my relationship with the board up.

That is my point to degree.  As surfers we make relationships with our boards.  Some of these relationships are hot and short, not lasting more than a season or the addition of 10 pounds to our frame.  Others are long and loving, a romance that starts as a tepid friendship, and endures through bumps and bruises and rocky times.  These relationships shape the very life of our surfing existence.  Our surfing style changes to meet the demands of the board as much as the board meets the demands of our surfing.

To that end I will always have a place inside of me that is an old school longboarder.  When I say old school, I mean VW Bus Driving, hair down to my navel wearing, hippie sandal rocking, patchouli oil bathing, vegan eating old school.  My surfing was informed by a board that was built when that style was all of the rage.  The board that I fell in love with, and that still holds my toes over the nose, is the 8′ 10″ 35 lb. Morey Pope. 

Big Red

This board was given to me by an old high school friend.  He salvaged the board from a wood pile.  He gave me the board and said go ahead and keep it I am never going to ride it.  (I still owe Freddy a return of that stoke).  I surfed it for years before I invested in a “real” board.  Everything about the thing is lumbering and massive, and that is what makes it beautiful. 

I have not been the greatest of owners, to that I must admit.  In some ways I have been a good keeper though.  Somehow I have managed to lug this board around, even when sleeping on couches and renting studio apartments from month to month (the things we do for love).  When I could not keep the board with me, I have made certain that it was properly housed, until it could home to roost.  Where I have been delinquent is that I have surfed the board with holes, and dings and gashes galore.

The scars of love

In an effort to repay the love that this board has shown me however, I will make a honset attempt to get it fixed. It has hung safely in my garage in recent years and the repair process will begin soon.  I will document the healing.  We will surf together again soon.  Although I profess to be a shortboarder, the slumbering kook wearing the tye dyes of the summer of love will be stoking into waves on this big bessy.  Who knows, maybe it will even get me to part with the Local Motion.  Afterall, it is sooooo 80s.


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