Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!

Posted: April 18, 2010 in Sessions
Tags: , , , , , ,

See full size imageAhh, the surprise swell.  Few things are better for a surfer than coming into a day with no waves on the horizon, only to take a drive by your local break to see 3 foot peelers coming through.  It is like finding 10 bucks in a coat pocket, the only question is how quickly you will spend it.  Or should I say, how quickly you can run home, cancel all responsibilities, grab your go-to-board, in this case it was my 7s Superfish, and race back to the water’s edge before it is all gone. 

The Local Watering Hole

Beside the fact that there are waves, there are also other hidden bonuses to the sneaker swell for surfers.  First, it is generally uncrowded because even my favorite surf sites like Localswell and Magicseaweed are not making the call.  Even the 30 second cameras on Surfline make the Atlantic Ocean appear flat.  Secondly, it is often short-lived, so there is the added glee associated with catching something fleeting. Lastly, it is a charge to the little kid inside of a surfer that yearns for freedom. 


Saturday afternoon brought one of these bonus swells.  I was able to get in an hour of surfing a fun waist-high beach break with two people out.  The cherry on top was that the two folks I shared the lineup with were friendly.  They both waved and smiled.  They hooted me into a wave (imagine that, hooting a stranger in!).  And after my session I talked to one of the surfers as she waited for her husband, who could not get enough.  All of this with spontaneity and unbounded joy.  Come to think of it, forget about finding 10 bucks in your coat pocket, a surprise like that is priceless.

  1. surfanimals says:

    Thanks bro, likewise…..get your arse over to Oz and I’ll show you about.

    Great Blog and so good to see someone not afraid to have an opinion !

    Cheers, Chris.

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