Posts Tagged ‘Surfer’

Saturday Morning Swell

Posted: February 26, 2011 in waves
Tags: , , , , ,

A nice swell in the water. Hope you are getting a few. In the water soon!

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Below are ten very unofficial suggestions you may wish to adopt as resolutions for the year twenty-eleven.  Either way SeaSandSurf wishes you a year of peace and good times. 

1) Don’t hate on the beach that is growing on the floor of your car.  Sand is beautiful.

2) Drink more pre-surf coffee so you can stay warm during those winter sessions.

3) Don’t doubt it- when it’s your turn to go, paddle and go.

4) Road trip!

5) If you find yourself mind surfing in the middle of the afternoon then you must be doing something right.

6) Don’t let the boss know.

7) Surf on a day that is beyond your comfort zone, even if it means a surf trip to Tahiti.

8) Go ahead, hoot that stranger in the line-up into the wave of the day.

9) Snake one for old time’s sake.

10)  If anyone can get away with wearing a pair of purple Uggs you can. No, for real!

A special thanks to Daniel “Surfer Into the Woods” Yackewych for helping to formulate the scientific list above.

I know it may be a little too late (or early) to revisit Earl, but Tim Bourne of Identity Surf shot a great video of some Jersey surfing that I wanted to post up.

For me, the video could not have come at a better time. 

Let’s face it, most of can’t surf whenever we feel like it.  There are jobs, families, responsibilities and all of the other facets and complexities of the day-to-day that can keep us out of the water.

Personally, this will often cause a disconnect.  So wrapped up in my busy life, I will at times forget what it means to be a surfer.  I will even occasionally think that I may be done.  “Who has the time?” my brain will tell me. 

It is in moments like this that I am reminded of the infamous line from the Godfather III when Al Pacino says,  “just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in.”

As a surfer, I don’t mean say this with the same brutal angst felt by Michael Corleone.  I actually apply the line with the utmost gratitude and affinity for those who help share the stoke.  Afterall, if I stopped surfing today I can’t turn State’s Witness.  The best I can do is tell you about a few unknown breaks that work best on a south swell at mid-tide.

So this time, with the burdens of “all things life” feeling, well, burdensome- it was Tim’s excellent video of a bunch of guys getting glad on the waves of Earl that drew me back in. 

 

Now, I will feverishly follow the reports in the hopes that I can get in the water again soon.  Happily thinking to myself, “yes, I am drawn back in!”

Floating Over Igor

I have had the fortune of meeting some really cool people through surfing.  As a sport it has a way of bringing people together, because it is true that “only a surfer understands the feeling.”  Igor, and his swell, helped fortify that level of shared community even further.

On Friday evening I surfed with Philly Dan.  We met in Ocean Grove because he was interested in buying a board I had for sale. We got a few waves together and he walked away with my Local Motion.  Having never met before I was stoked to have had the chance to grab a few waves with someone new. 

Cool Pictures from Michael Pallers

 But parting with a board is sweet sorrow.  I realize that they are only pieces of foam and fiberglass, but I cannot help but forming emotional attachments.  In many ways it feels like getting dumped by a girl in high school- you know deep down it is not a big deal, but still it sucks.

On the other hand, now there is room in my quiver for a new board. That is where Gene Wahl and Essence Surf will step in.  I know he has big things happening with his designs and I am excited to see where he is heading. I am also happy that Philly Dan will get some really great waves with it.

 After we had surfed early Igor together, with evening settling in, I met Michel Paller.  She was one the beach shooting these pictures, which she was kind enough to share with Sea Sand Surf.  She was super cool and is down for shooting pictures of anyone’s epic session, just send her an email. Pallers@juno.com

The guys in the photos were sharing in the fun.  They had surfed in LBI Friday morning and came north of the Jersey Bend to grab a few.

 The conditions were not the greatest, but it was a nice start to things.  After all, what is better than surfing some fun waves with new friends?  I can’t think of much.

It is official.  The NFL is on my television and the evenings are cool.  I have pulled some of the last tomatoes off of my back yard vines and the summer has gone to bed.

Sure, it will get hot for a few days again.  The beaches might even get crowded on a Saturday afternoon, but June is further away than February.

Surfers know that this is not the time for despair though.  My tip: keep stretching, exercise and get ready for Hurricane Igor

If you are looking for some social activity, don’t forget the Surf Bash at the Algonquin Theater in Manasquan on September 18th.  Who can’t use some excellent surf art from Jay Alders and the mellow music of Matt Costa?  With Surfrider and Original Skateboards helping sponsor, it will be a good evening.

Also, mark your calendars for the New York Surf Film Festival which takes place on the weekend of September 24th in Tribeca.  Looking at the program The Dark Fall and Being Captain Zero both jump out at me. 

In that same vein, I thought I would share this short film by Carmen Vicari; just another talented East Coast guy getting it done.   Thanks for checking in.

Thanks for checking in.  Earl is a popular guy right now.  While the name generally invokes an image of NASCAR and canned beer for me, the approaching storm has me thinking about the chance for some great waves.  I was trying to recall, but I think it was Fabian who brought the last decent tropical swell for Labor Day Weekend?  Don’t quote me on that, but I think I may be right. I do remember getting a fun swell a few years back with a storm at the start of the alphabet for the official close of summer, and I am hoping for a repeat.

Early Earl

I received a text this morning (thanks Tim) that the first hint of the storm was in the water.  “Waist high and mostly clean” was the early read. Unfortunately, I am in high season professionally and the chance to drop it all for a wave did not present itself for me.  I did however get to the Atlantic Ocean’s edge with enough time to snap a few photos of early Earl.  The winds were heavy from the south and conditions were less than ideal,  still the crew in the water looked to be having a blast.  And yes, the water is warm.

Here is hoping for more to come.

10 Things That Made Danielle Great

1)      The water was warm, and the sun was shining

2)      The crowds.  Hell man it is summer.  If you can’t beat ‘em (and you can’t) join ‘em

3)      Finding a nugget to yourself, like this unnamed fortunate soul did (no it was not me)

(There was a beautiful photo here but in respect of the break you will have to imagine it) 

4)      She was a great test of all things surf reporting.  Did anyone not know a week ahead of time?

5)      Surfing with groms who were yelling OUTSIDE! at the sight of an approaching set.

6)      Seeing said groms stoked on grabbing their first hurricane swell

7)      Knowing that Earl is coming, and did someone say Fiona ( and I don’t mean apple)

8)      Seeing a few college guys who got some waves before a landlocked semester

9)      Realizing that Labor Day is a few days away and the crowds well, will not be as crowded

10)   Paddle shape, paddle shape, paddle shape.