Posts Tagged ‘Todd Stewart’

 

The Grateful Dead had a line in a song that always struck me: “once in a while we can get shown the light in the strangest of places if we look at them right.”  I share that, because even though the ocean has been flat, I have still seen surfing in so many places in my travels recently. 

First, I had the opportunity to sit and discuss surfing with Sam Hammer yesterday.  We got together over a cup of coffee in Point Pleasant.  It was an awesome interview, and as always Hammer proved himself to be a solid guy.  I look forward to sharing the contents with you soon. 

Secondly, I was riding my bike yesterday morning trying to mind my cardio in the event that waves do come (and they will).  In my travels I came across this piece of wood sitting next to a dumpster in Bradley Beach.  I sought the owner of the shop out, and when he saw me standing next to the thing all I had to do was point.  He said, “what, do you want to make a board out of that?” 

So, You Think it Will Float?

 

I said, “I think it will float” to which he responded “of course it will float.  That is the way they used to make them.  Take it away.”  Another project to add to the list. 

Lastly, I came across another Todd Stewart film.  I know that the summer is busy, the beaches are packed, but this is a great reminder that we can still have a nice get away with the ocean.  Does anyone else smell autumn in the air? 

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I know I have blogged about this before, but often times surfing is about learning lessons in the water that apply to my life outside of the waves.  For instance there is patience, and a willingness to wait for a wave and be at peace in the process.  This mindset works wonders in a crowded grocery store or when frustration or anxiety bubbles inside of me.  

There is also the lesson of commitment; either the commitment to drop in on a wave, or paddling out in conditions that challenge my own ability.  At times it is has been the commitment to work my way back into the water from a nagging injury or a prolonged flat spell.  I have been able to apply this perseverance to all areas of my professional and family life with great rewards.  The commitment to surf always pays dividends. 

I learned another lesson on gratitude this weekend.  We had a small swell and the opportunity to surf was there.  After a morning session I went and watched the Warrior Challenge with some folks from the Training Room.  These fine people were raising money for Task Force Dagger which was established to assist wounded special operations soldiers and their families in their time of need.  I am very grateful that these men and women risk their lives so that we can do many things, including surf.  

Hugh Meehan Supports the Walter Reed Foundation

Josh Motta of Seven Special Forces Group, Fort Bragg

Protecting a Local Break

 This event raised $10,000 for a very worthy cause.  I have a tendency to get caught up in my daily life and I lose sight of the fact that some people give so willingly.  It was a great day to be reminded.

Another place where I learned something recently was via a short film created by Todd Stewart titled The Surf Magazines Don’t Talk About Lapsed Catholics.  It is amazing, and touches on a few of the primary lessons that any surfer needs to learn (and in my case relearn again and again).  

Enjoy and thanks for checking in.