“Once in awhile you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at them right.”
Praying for Funsets!
Archive for March, 2011
A Simple Reminder
Posted: March 19, 2011 in For the love of the sportTags: childhood like memory, fun, health, in the moment, sports, surfing, waves
4
The Daily Miracle
Posted: March 18, 2011 in Lifestyle, wavesTags: Beach, Community, Destruction, Environment, exercise, Gratitude, Happiness, Japan, Jersey Shore, love, New Jersey, surfing, waves
We had some good waves last weekend in New Jersey. The March winds blew and blew, the passing storm shook the trees and filled the lakes, and in the wake a nice swell persisted in the face of howling offshores.
While surfing on Sunday I found myself feeling immensely grateful for the opportunity to be in the water. It is a small miracle to be able to paddle out, to have legs and arms and a body that will allow it. It is an equal miracle to have found surfing at all; to be given the opportunity.
Rarely is this gratitude lost on me, but last weekend it was more pronounced. With the devastation in Japan I could not help but reflect on how quickly life can turn. The phrase, “that there is no day promised to you” came to mind as I watched the sun weave its way through the mid-March clouds.
Internally I had a flickering reminder that “there is no wave promised to you either.” Life can change on a dime, all the more reason to give thanks for the opportunities we have, as we are having them.
Pot Holes In My Lawn
Posted: March 13, 2011 in surfing, wavesTags: Beach, Community, country, Environment, Happiness, health, Jersey Shore, Life, Long Boards, music, Surf Board, waves
De La Soul, rap group extraordinaire, had an album out back in the day titled Three Feet High and Rising. And while I could probably remember 80% of the lyrics for Hip-Hop karaoke, it is not the music that stays with me, rather it is the album title.
Three Feet High and Rising is the perfect way I like to think of an incoming southerly swell. If you are familiar with the album you may remember the refrain where Posdnous asks, “how highs the water ma’ma” and Plug Two replies “three feet high and rising.”
There are times when I am paddling out and I will hear this as clear as a bell and I just need to laugh. Or even better, there are times when I am hoping for waves and some random object will make me stop and think, “yes, that would be the perfect wave height for me right now.”
Hence the red fire plug. I passed it on my drive yesterday, and it caught my eye. All I could think to myself was, how highs the water ma’ma?”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0irL1M15DH8&playnext=1&list=PLB58D37F7688379FA
Sea Sand Surf 